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March 08, 2006
Regrets, I've had a few
Aside from the cheese, there's another purchase I regret not making.
I saw it at The Gesu, the central Jesuit church in Rome. Now, the Gesu is a fascinating place artistically and historically, of course, and I knew some of what to expect there - St. Francis Xavier's arm and so on. What I, in my limited art knowledge didn't expect...was the ceiling:
Click on the link for a bigger version. But even that, as those who have seen it, can't even come close to the impact of seeing it in person. The ceiling painting - The Triumph of the Holy Name of Jesus is by Giovanni Battista Gaulli, aka Boccicio and is a..triumph of the 17th century art of illusion - Jesus, represented by an IHS, sends forth the light that tosses the heretics downward - and it does look as if they are headed right at you as you gaze upward. Moving back to the center, the sky seems to open up, revealing the eternal heavens from which Jesus' power shines forth.
Here's an article on the fairly recent restoration of the Gesu from the Jesuit magazine, Company.
There were postcards of course, but they were puny, and had no point, being far too small to capture the power of that ceiling. There was, however, a large poster with a small calendar of Jesuit saints' feast days along the bottom, which came pretty close and was..3 Euros. But they guy had no tubes in which to put the thing, we were still fairly early in our explorations that day, and I thought.."I'll come back. I'll find a tube. I'll get it." But, of course...I didn't.
So. Rome people? If anyone wants to go by the Gesu and pick that up for me and ship it...let me know and I'll reimburse you. Promise.
(Link to image changed - this one should work. And...someone's offered to get the poster for me. Thanks for the offers!)Posted by Amy Welborn | Permalink
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Comments
Amy, I'm going to Rome at the end of May and I intend on going to the Gesu....I will pick up a Gesu poster for you if you don't get one before then :) And thanks for the nice insights on your Rome experience...I haven't done a lot of thinking yet about my 10 day trip, but as it gets into spring, I know I will!
Cheers from Canada, Tony
Posted by: Tony at Mar 8, 2006 2:48:40 PM
Tried to view the larger image of Jesus casting out the heretics, but got a message instead:
FORBIDDEN: You do not have permission to access ...
I'm really hoping this is a site requiring registration and not a sign of something else ...
Welcome back
Posted by: Paul Pfaffenberger at Mar 8, 2006 3:01:46 PM
Amy -- mi dispiace! We leave tomorrow morning, and it's already 9 pm here. Else I'd have gotten it for you. I'll almost certainly be back here in June on my way to India ... so again, if you haven't gotten one by then ... definitely will be glad to.
Yes, the Gesù is stunning. Did y'all get to see the trompe l'oeil ceiling at S. Ignazio?
Posted by: Gashwin at Mar 8, 2006 3:04:50 PM
Unfortunately, the ceiling was under renovation the last two times I was in Rome.
Posted by: Boethius at Mar 8, 2006 3:50:05 PM
I got the same "FORBIDDEN:...." message. Any one have an idea why?
Posted by: mil at Mar 8, 2006 3:52:26 PM
TWO HIGH RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THOSE VISITING ROME.
"How to Enjoy the Sistine Chapel" Get in line for the Vatican Museum at least a half hour before it opens. Once you get in, BYPASS EVERYTHING AND GO STRAIGHT TO THE SISTINE CHAPEL. That way you'll see it free of the "mosh pit". After you've soaked in the chapel, you can tour the rest of the museum.
"Perhaps the Most Interesting Church in Rome" San Clement, a flew blocks away from the Colosseum. Beneath the present church (which is already ancient), you will be able to descend to lower levels to see the remains of two successively older churches and two pagan sanctuaries.
Posted by: Fr. Stephanos, O.S.B. at Mar 8, 2006 4:11:55 PM
What purchases are you happy about, Amy? I will be in Rome in Oct. I would like to bring home some small gifts, but I don't like to shop (and that isn't the point of the trip). I enjoy your blog,and the Rome posts have been very helpful.
Posted by: Anne at Mar 8, 2006 4:52:00 PM
Had the same problem in Italy finding tubes. Next time I'm taking a couple! Sorry I didn't give you the heads up on that.
Posted by: William at Mar 8, 2006 5:10:11 PM
The Gesu is a wonderful church. The ceiling is flat, and the dome you see gazing upwards is not a dome at all. And the confessionals are manned.
Posted by: Henry C. Luthin at Mar 8, 2006 7:31:22 PM























