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March 10, 2006
Why Joseph fell in front of the Mithran shrine
All you need for an explanation is this photo:
Yes, that is how Joseph made his way around the Eternal City. Eternally Goofy. While the baby vainly tries to indicate his presence...
Photo courtesy of Blogger Gashwin.
The photo was snapped in the courtyard of the not-to-be-missed Church of S. Clemente also described here. It's one of the more (deservedly) well-known excavations in Rome: an 12th-century church (restored in the 18th), built on top of a 4th-century church, built on top of a complex of houses, some probably used as house churches by Christians, and one, at least, in Mithraean cultic practices.
The underground structures were discovered in the 1850's by a Dominican priest - one can still see the original hole through which he broke into the lower levels. Here's an excellent detailed article on the structures, which I wish I'd read before I went.
(A lot of you are writing me to tell you that this travelogue is whetting your appetite to go to Rome. Writing is whetting my appetite to go back, this time with time in Assisi and Siena added to the mix. Crazy when we're still lurching around only half-recovered. Ah, but like the pains of childbirth, the agony of that 13-hour plane time on Monday will soon fade, I'm confident...)
Every bit of the experience is worth savoring, and for longer than we were able to give it. The upper church, even with some rather excessive late additions, is lovely and still evocative of medieval sensibilities - always a relief in Rome after over-exposure to the Baroque and Roccoco - and the excavations are totally absorbing, cool and quiet, even with the tourists exploring, the sound of water coursing by at one point, the faded frescoes carefully preserved. As you stand and study them, you can't help but cast yourself back in time, as you do regularly in Rome, and imagine the Christians of 1400 years ago worshipping in this space, where you are standing now. It is not just historical curiosity that is satisfied; it is the hope for an anchor and community that is fulfilled in places like this.
Oh, and the Mithraen shrine? Yes, there was that, and it was intriguing to imagine the scenes there, as well. The rocky paths and corners were just too tempting though, and seemed an invitation of some sort to goofiness and giddiness...perhaps the spirit of ancient worshippers, bathed in the blood of bulls? Who knows. Oh, it wasn't a serious fall, but a totall predictable tumble on aged, hardened floors that were once roads and paths. I'm sure children had fallen there before, perhaps even millenia ago. More ties that bind - Christians to Christians; children trying to make their own amusements in a world of grown-up interests then - and now.
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Comments
Hehe. At least the Florida logo on his tee isn't too visible ... :-) [ducks]
Amy, I'm sure y'all will be back. My first visit was almost exactly 4 years ago, and it definitely wasn't the last ... :)
Posted by: Gashwin at Mar 10, 2006 2:34:43 PM
Oh, do go to Assisi and Siena. They are absolutely lovely, I fell completely in love with them. Siena's countryside is beautiful, and Assisi feels like a town close to heaven... very peaceful and perfect for prayer.
Posted by: Veronica at Mar 10, 2006 2:45:19 PM
(A lot of you are writing me to tell you that this travelogue is whetting your appetite to go to Rome. Writing is whetting my appetite to go back, this time with time in Assisi and Siena added to the mix.
Amy, I'm sincerely curious -- when your wrote your article about Christian culture and its relevance, has your trip to Rome changed any of the views you expressed in it? I ask because I've often thought that through the grace of God perhaps it was because I left Europe at a young age and rediscovered her Christian spiritual and cultural treasures as an adult that I've always felt a connection to the historical sites of Christian Europe, not just in a cultural sense but because of the faith of past generations I discovered there. As they say, familiarity *can* breed contempt and sadly some of my European confreres have become blinded to the treasures in their midst.
Just wondering.
Posted by: Christine at Mar 10, 2006 3:56:42 PM
Christine:
I'm going to eventually get to that. The short version is: Having been there now, I can say that I totally get it. The issue is complex, and has many dimensions, but at least when it comes to Rome, I have a greater understanding, I think of the dynamic you describe - but it's not only the treasures, as you mention, but the impact of ecclesiastical culture on those who live around, near and even at times under its power.
Posted by: amy at Mar 10, 2006 4:14:25 PM
Thanks, Amy. I'm so glad you and your family made the journey to Rome. I'm hoping to get there as a retirement gift to myself in a few years (hoping to go with my sister -- we want to try to visit our grandparents' graves in Germany; hubby will probably have to stay home) and I, too, would like to make Assisi part of my itinerary.
I'm very much enjoying your posts about the trip.
Posted by: Christine at Mar 10, 2006 4:38:32 PM
Very nice comments at Zenit about you and your work as Da Vinci Decoder!
Posted by: Jeff Hendrix at Mar 10, 2006 5:16:12 PM
In the summer the courtyard of San Clemente hosts (for a fee, of course) regular outdoors concerts.
I saw version #986 of "Three Tenors" doing the usual Three Tenor stuff.
Posted by: Jimmy Mac at Mar 10, 2006 5:28:42 PM
Maybe you can make it an annual visit? And stay longer, perhaps a couple of months? Why not spend the summer there?
Posted by: Radactrice at Mar 10, 2006 6:18:54 PM
Three Tenors is Two Too Many
Posted by: Charles A. at Mar 10, 2006 8:24:18 PM
Amy, I'm enjoying your posts about Rome (and your great photos) very much.
Posted by: Donna V. at Mar 10, 2006 8:26:47 PM
Amy
I was beginning to wonder if you had missed San Clemente. I am so glad you visited it. There is usually a great festival for his feast day on 23 November. The Irish Dominicans are a great hoot as well.
Posted by: Ryan at Mar 10, 2006 11:01:42 PM
Three years back I was waiting in a hotel lobby in Bangkok for a transfer back to Bangkok Airport and a flight to Rome. There was a young man from Rome also waiting there for a ride to somewhere deeper in Thailand. When he heard I was going to Rome he wrote down for me three things not to miss. Top of his list was San Clemente. I went there and loved it. A fascinating place.
Posted by: KiwiNomad06 at Mar 15, 2006 12:44:44 AM






















